Istanbul not Constantinople

Day 1

An overnight ten hour direct flight from Phuket with Turkish Airlines (business) arriving lunch time allowed us to arrive feeling ready to hit the ground running...very impressed with their service.  Quickly through immigration via the business class lane the only delay was waiting for the suitcases so took the opportunity to get some euros for the prebooked airport transfer through Effendi Travel.  Would advise waiting until you are in the city to exchange monies as we later found out it was not a good rate.

The arrival hall was extremely busy so it took some time to locate the agent who sent us outside to wait so time for a quick smoke before being whisked off to the hotel.  Would recommend this company, the price is good and although not a new vehicle the driver was friendly and they were on time for the return transfer.

I had no idea that the Sultanahmet area is a walled city with lovely cobbled streets full of cafes and shops, could not wait to get out and explore! The FS Sultanahmet is located literally a few minutes minutes from Sultanahmet Square so all the main sights are all within easy walking distance and we spent an enjoyable afternoon walking around the Hippodrome and attempting to find our way to the Grand Bazaar which is just up the road.

The Grand Bazaar is massive so we just walked around the first few streets and then made our way back to the hotel to get ready for dinner.  We had spotted a lovely restaurant set in the courtyard of the Ayasofya Hamami Bathhouse just opposite the Hagia Sophia with outside seating so had our first dinner in Istanbul, huge portions, decent food and an exceptionally cheap price.... we did find out later that the Turkish lira had crashed.

I think I fell in love with Istanbul in those first few hours!

The atmosphere in Sultanahmet Square in the evening is wonderful, the whole square is full of local families and couples out for an evening stroll enjoying themselves against the backdrop of the Blue Mosque and the magnificent Hagia Sophia... we loved it.

Read More about The Four Seasons Sultanahmet

Day 2 - Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace and Basilica Cistern

Blue Mosque

After much searching for a guided tour I booked and paid online for the ‘I have one day in Istanbul’ tour with Istanbul Tour Studio to see the main sights with express entrance.  The cost is $233.20 for two but the Topkapi Palace is an extra cost.

After a very good breakfast we met our guide for the day at the hotel and made our way to the Blue Mosque - a beautiful building from the outside but currently under repair inside and out but should not be missed, you cannot go to Istanbul and say you did not see the Blue Mosque!  Finished in 1616 the Mosque gets its name from the Iznik blue tiles surrounding the walls which are stunning. Do look for the four huge pillars that support the four massive domes and it is the only Mosque in Istanbul to have 6 minarets, well 5 in our case, one had been taken away for repair.  Jon did ask our guide when it would be returned to which she informed us that she was an archaeologist...one of those "wtf" moments.

The complex also has a tomb, madrasa (secular or religious school) and hospice.

Topkapi Palace

We then walked across the square to the Topkapi Palace Museum which was completed in 1478 by Sultan Mehmet II and became the imperial residence of the Ottoman Sultans. There is a lot to see here and we unfortunately did not have enough time to cover all of it. You will find museum shops in the first, second and third courtyards as well as cafes and restaurants in all four sections.

From the Imperial Gate you have a long walk through the first courtyard which contains:

Hagia Irene Church - only surviving example of a Byzantine church with a standing atrium and built in the 6th century.

The next courtyard is entered through the Gate of Salutation so called because everyone had to salute before going through into the second courtyard, now you just have to pay.

The second courtyard contains:

• Palace kitchens - displaying Ottoman kitchen utensils and other items related to palace cuisine
• Imperial Council Chamber - rebuilt in 1665
• Tower of Justice - visible from most of the city
• Treasury of the Divan (Council) - the main imperial treasury, the building which now has an exhibition of weapons and armour, some made of gold (no photos allowed)
• Ward of the Zuluflu Guards - palace guards quarters
• Imperial Stables
• Beshir Agha Mosque and Baths - prayer room for stable employees
• The Harem - this is what I wanted to see, you do have to pay extra and some areas are closed for repair, even so it is fascinating... a town within a town with vaulted roads, beautifully decorated chambers and an outside courtyard with views over the Harem pool and the city.

Next go through the Gate of Felicity where you enter the Enderun courtyard which contains:

• Audience Hall - standing in the centre of the courtyard
• The Library - known for its architecture of the Tulip period (1718 - 30) located behind the Audience Hall
• Pavilion of the Conqueror - the royal treasury containing the Sultans private pocket money- slightly bigger than the normal piggy bank!  The building now exhibits objects of historical value that were plundered or gifted to the Sultan.
• Treasury of the Chamberlain - used now for the exhibition of the holy relics as the Privy Room is currently closed
• Dormitory of the Privy Chambers - currently exhibiting portraits of the Sultans
• Dormitory of the Expeditionary Force - the Sultan's laundry staff at home and on campaign - the building now exhibits the clothing worn by the Sultans.
• The Butlers' Dormitory - home to the most respected members of the Sultan's staff - now used as museum offices

• Ağalar Mosque - built for the use of the Sultan, the white eunuchs and the pupils of the inner palace school - now used as the palace library

The fourth courtyard has many pavilions used by the Sultan's most with outstanding views over the Sea of Marmara and the Bosphorus

• Royal Hall - this is a terrace accessed from the Privy Room and is the highest space containing a flower garden and pool.
• Circumcision Room - no explanation needed
• Revan Kiosk - a pavilion once used to store the Sultan's turbans and precious books
• Baghdad Kiosk - a beautiful pavilion names to commemorate Sultan Murad IV's reconquest of Baghdad in the 17th century.
• Iftaree Pavilion - used by the Sultan's to break fast and holiday festivities.
• Sofa Kiosk - the pavilion shows the new style called Turkish Rococo with french furniture and a brazier signed Duplesis sent by Louis XV in 1742.
• Sofa Mosque - open to visitors for prayer
• Mecidiye Kiosk - built in 1859 this pavilion is one of the most recent buildings
• Tower of the Chief Physician/Head Tutor - home to the physician who treated the Sultan and his family, the tower now exhibits medical instruments and materials.
• Wardrobe Chamber - built in a european style to keep garments.

Below the fourth courtyard steps lead down to a restaurant, the perfect spot for lunch or a welcome drink with a view.

In 2018 there is a lot of renovation work going on so certain areas were not available for our visit, you can check what is open on the government website.

Hagia Sophia

Now for the highlight of our tour...one of the most important historical buildings in the world today.

Embarrassed to say on first sight yesterday we were not sure if the building was the famous Hagia Sophia, from ground level it does not look as expected. Numerous additions have been added since the third construction on the site in 537 and supporting pillars installed due to damage from earthquakes in the region.  The result is not pretty!

Once inside all is forgiven, absolutely stunning.

The decoration is beautiful with materials taken from ancient cities in the region including columns from the Temple of Artemis in Ephessus, to be used in the naves, and eight from Egypt to support the domes. 104 columns have been used in total, again look for the 4 main ones supporting the massive central dome which is 55.60 metres from ground level.

I was fascinated by the passageway leading up to the top level, you can just imagine all the people over the centuries who have walked the same route.

If you only have time to see one sight in Istanbul this is it!

Again during our visit in 2018 repair work was taking place.

Basilica Cistern

Second on my wish list...the Basilica Cistern, just a few minutes walk from the Hagia Sophia.

The largest cistern in Istanbul built in 532 by the Emperor Justinian I to meet the water needs of the emperor's palace and other buildings close by, it is called the Basilica Cistern as there was a originally a basilica on the site. Covering 9800 sqm it has an estimated storage capacity of 100,000 tons.  There are 336 columns in various marbles and styles but of most interest are the two Medusa Heads from the roman period which are thought to have been supports at the time of construction.

The ancient building has recently been used in two movies, Skyfall and Inferno.

Again repair work is underway so there is no water in the cistern.

There are several hundred cisterns in Istanbul and another one has been opened to the public, the Theodosius Cistern which was built around 443 AD by the Roman Emperor Theodosius II to store water from the Valens Aqueduct.  It is located at Piyer Loti Street in the Fatih district.

Time for lunch at the Medusa Cafe which is just up the street from the Cistern, this restaurant was so good we returned twice for dinner.

Grand Bazaar

Onwards to the Grand Bazaar - shopping time!

This covered bazaar built from 1455 onwards is one of the oldest and largest in the world with 61 streets and over 4000 shops so where on earth do you start!

Besides the following you can buy beautiful ceramics, copper and bronze items, textiles, lamps and pure junk

• Jewellers and gold bracelets along Kalpakcılar Caddesi;
• Gold bracelets along Kuyumcular Carsısı;
• Furniture along Divrikli Caddesi;
• Carpets along Sahaflar Caddesi;
• Leather goods along Perdahçılar Caddesi
• Leather and casual clothes at the Bit Pazarı.

Bargaining takes place with cups of tea being offered before you even look at anything but quality vendors do not harass you.

In the end I did not buy anything from the bazaar, one reason was luggage space and the other was we did not really have enough time to see all that was on offer.

So we said goodbye to our guide and went for a relaxing drink on the way back to the hotel, it had been an busy day!

For dinner we returned to the Medusa Cafe and had a very great meal with the amazing yoghurt and hummus dips, far too much food again.

We finished off the evening with cocktails at the A'ya Rooftop Terrace at the hotel, another reason to stay at this hotel...awesome cocktails with the best views of the Hagia Sophia.

Day 3 - Shopping and the elusive Galata Tower

Today was Shopping Day so after another perfect breakfast - yes eggs benedict again - we asked reception about the tram and how to get to Istiklal Street. Armed with free tram tickets we then decided it would be nice to talk down to the Galata Bridge following the tram route. Finding The Tunel on the other side of the bridge was not easy but finally we got to the start of the street and the plan was to keep branching off to find certain shops/areas and then back to see the Galata Tower.

Best laid plans and all that...nearly 20 km later after walking back down to the bottom of the hill after an attempt to find a certain shopping street and back up again only to find ourselves at the beginning of Istiklal nearly where we started we finally stood in a queue for what we thought was the Galata Tower only to be told it was down the hill...seriously!  Heading downhill again we found it but the queue was so long we contented ourselves with photos of the outside.  For anyone interested we should have veered right just after getting off The Tunel or take the street going uphill in front of you after walking over the bridge and if you need to stop for a drink there are quite a few little cafes located in the little side alleys off Istiklal. 

After our little adventure we got the tram back and went straight for an early dinner at Medusa as we were leaving at 3.30 am the next day.

Istanbul Conclusion

Very sad to leave Istanbul...loved the atmosphere, loved the food and felt very safe. Easy to walk round and the public transport is efficient if required.

 

We enjoyed our stay so much that we tried to change the return flight to be able to stay again but this proved impossible.

 

Cannot wait to return

Istanbul