Crazy Cairo
One of the largest cities in Africa and the Middle East and over a 1000 years old, first impressions on the journey to Giza on the western bank of the Nile was of a dusty chaotic jumble of buildings, traffic was manic with hooters blaring continually.
Although our hotel was located in a ‘historic suburb’ there was nothing that looked interesting and we did not feel inclined to venture out during our stay even though we overlooked the Zoological gardens which did improve the view.
Once on the east bank the city is far more cosmopolitan with the Egyptian Museum, Tahrir Square and the Khan el-Khalili Bazaar to see plus the medieval Islamic city and the Coptic sites. Driving through the streets you see beautiful if somewhat dilapidated old apartment buildings and modern tower blocks overlooking the Nile which still dominates this city.
How to get there and Transportation
Cairo International Airport is the second biggest airport in Africa. Most major airlines fly in as well as the budget carrier TUI.
You can then connect to other airports in Egypt with Egypt Air.
By Train - from Ramses Station to Alexandria, Luxor and Aswan or from Giza Railway Station to Luxor and Aswan.
From the Airport:
Metered White Taxis - insist on the meter.
Uber and Careem - difficult pick up for uber, follow instructions.
London Taxis from Sixt
Limousine Services available
Getting around
Metro - 3 lines - modern and quick
Taxi - white taxis are metered with air con. Try and get these over the older black and white taxis or random cars as they are cheaper and far more comfortable.
Where to stay
Four Seasons First Residence
Boutique style hotel on the west bank with views of the Nile or Pyramids in the distance
Four Seasons Nile Plaza
Larger luxury hotel with Nile or city views, excellent restaurants and service.
The Nile Ritz Carlton
Not rated for the legendary ritz service but close to the Egyptian Museum with nile views
Kempinski Nile Hotel
Gets good reviews especially for higher class rooms and views over the Nile.
Sofitel Cairo El Gezirah
Right on the river bank with gardens.
Marriott Mena House
Used to be an Oberoi but now gets very mixed reviews, location and views of the Pyramids is the reason to book.
What to See
Cairo Citadel
A medieval Islamic Fortress built by Saladin in the 12th century.
Mosque of Muhammad Ali
19th Century alabaster clad mosque beautifully decorated with motifs
Mosque of Ibn Tulun
Built in 879 AD a very grand Islamic monument with a spiral minaret.
The Hanging Church
Coptic Christian church with a wooden roof built in the shape of Noah’s Ark
Copti Museum
This museum houses ancient Egyptian Christian artwork, manuscripts and objects
City of the Dead
An ancient cemetery with ornate tombs, mausoleum and historic burial sites
Khan el-Khalili
Large bazaar selling souvenirs, crafts, jewellery, clothing, spices etc. TIP we were not hassled at all when we went back without the guide.
Egyptian Museum
A beautiful building built in 1835 housing 120,000 ancient Egyptian antiquities. Many items have and will continue to be moved to the new Museum opening in 2020 but many important pieces are still here. It is a total mess, there is no logic to displays and glass cabinets are dirty but it is still a worthwhile visit. There is no restaurant on site now and the few shops are best avoided. You are not allowed to take photos in the King Tut room nor of the Royal Mummies. Whilst we were there the Papyrus room was being redecorated…they had not removed any of the glass cabinets but had the ladders and paint pots resting over them!
Ticket Cost 120 EGP - Night 180 EGP
Ticket for Museum and Mummies Hall - 240 EGP
Mummies Hall - 150 EGP
The Big Stuff
Giza Necropolis
The Pyramids of Khufu (Cheops), Khafre (Chefren) and Menkaure (Mykerinos)
Tomb of Queen Khentkaus I
The Great Sphinx
Solar Boat Museum
Workers village
Cemeteries
It is a shock to see how close the complex is to the city and they have ruined it by putting a road in front of the Great Pyramid so tour buses are driving in front. The best view is from the rear, it is quieter and I would also recommend taking the ATV tour which takes you to the other side. The only downside is the amount of rubbish blowing around.
The Sphinx is viewed from the side so you do not get a feeling of how big it is and do take photos from the front before entering the temple as you are not allowed back to that area.
The Solar Boat Museum is a must do and highly recommend a Quad Bike tour to the side of the Pyramids.
Ticket costs
Giza Plateau 120 EGP
Great Pyramid (Knufu) 300 EGP
Khaefre 60 EGP
Menkaure 60 EGP
Workers Cemeteries 400 EGP
Ticket covering area, Knufu and solar boat museum 400 EGP
Dahshur
40 km south of Cairo, two of the oldest Pyramids are here, The Bent Pyramid built 2613-2589 BC for King Sneferu was the first attempt at building a smooth sided pyramid. They miscalculated so tried again with the Red Pyramid. There are several other pyramids here as well.
Certainly worth a visit, the place was empty, we wished we could have stayed longer.
Ticket Cost 60 EGP
Saqqara
The Step Pyramid…The Pyramid of Djoser
Buried Pyramid
Gisr el Mudir
Mastabat al-Fir’aun
Pyramid of Userkaf
Pyramid of Djedkare Isesi
Tomb of Khnumhotep and Niankhkhnum
Pyramid of Unas
Pyramid of Teti
Tomb of Akhethetep
Mortuary Complex of Pepi I
Pyramid of Merenre
Tomb of Perneb
Pyramid of Khendjer
Seraphim of Saqqara
This necropolis has so much to see, you could easily spend a day here..highly recommended
Ticket Cost 120 EGP
New Tombs 60 EGP
Memphis
20 km south of Cairo Memphis was the ancient capital of Ancient Egypt during the Old Kingdom. It is now a World Heritage site and classed as an open air museum.
Little remains to be seen except the Colossus of Ramesses II
The Nile
Felucca ride
Dinner Cruise
Cruise to Luxor and beyond - there are a couple of boats that still do this longer trip.
Day trips from Cairo
Amarna - the capital of Akhenaten, the controversial Pharaoh of the late 18th Dynasty.
Alexandria - founded in 331 BC by Alexander the Great, sights to see now include the Bibliotheca, Serapeum with Pompey's Pillar and the Catacombs of Kom ash-Suqqafa.
Restaurants
Below is a list I compiled before we arrived, the reality was that we ate in our hotel, after a full day sightseeing this was the easiest option for us. Very impressed with 8 the Chinese restaurant at the FS Nile Plaza.
Macaroni Reda (56 Mansour Street) - maronna bechamel
Le Pacha 1901
Abou El Sid
Arabic Coffee - Wardet El Yaman nr Tahir Square
Simonds - coffee shop
Cilantro - coffee shop
Zooba - egyptian street food
Andrea El Mariouteya
Fashet Sumuva
Kunst Gallery and Cafe
Shopping
Again my list before we arrived, the first two places I bought silver jewellery, to be honest I cannot remember which one is which. I think George Aziz is a tiny little shop up some back stairs in the bazaar. He did not have much but I got a nice ring and bracelet. The other shop is on a road in the bazaar, they had some modern pieces downstairs and then upstairs is the older stuff where you can buy a lot if you put your mind to it, closed on Sunday unfortunately or fortunately for wallet.
Mohammed Amin Silver - 70 Al-Muizz li-Din Allah- for unusual antique pieces from around the Middle East
George Aziz (14 Sikket al-Badestan, Khan al-Khalili souq) for contemporary silver styles.
Soul El-Fustat - local craft shops some of which were good, bought some nice bed runners and more jewellery at good prices.
Check whether these places are still going before travelling there:
MUIZ LI DIN ALLAH STREET, ISLAMIC CAIRO a daytime pedestrian-only zone between the stone gates of Bab Al Futuh and Bab Zuwayla going past the gold, copper, abaya and shisha-pipe souks as well as 34 monuments reflecting thousands of years of Islamic architecture. Browse the antiques stores across from the just-restored mausoleum of the Mamluk sultan Qalawun for colonial-era paintings, Arabic-letter typewriters, enamel signs, and other bric-a-brac. Many shops are closed Sundays.
Nagada - Cairo-based designers Sylva Nasralla and Michel Pastore transform hand-loomed Egyptian textiles into sheath dresses, shawls, slinky tops, and trousers. The boutique, is in Dokki, and also sells home textiles and pottery from the Fayoum Oasis (13 Refa’a St.; 20-2-748-6663).
Townhouse Gallery - Cairo’s most cutting-edge contemporary art space with gift shop. Find anything from revolution-inspired paintings by emerging artists to Etsy-esque jewelry made of recycled dice from Egyptian board games. The shop also carries hard-to-find books about Middle Eastern contemporary art. Corner of Hussein El Me’mar and Mahmoud Basyouni Streets.; 20-2-2576-8086
Azza Fahmy - Designer with several Cairo branches, the boutique at the First Mall has the largest selection (35 Giza St., second floor).
Al Qahira - On the second floor of a residential apartment building in Zamalek, this home accessories boutique sells lightweight, easily portable objects unavailable in the tourist bazaars. Wooden boxes inlaid with Ottoman florals or Arabic script; hand mirrors and handbags imprinted with vintage movie star photos; textiles hand-printed with Arabic calligraphy and sold by the yard; and enamel silver jewelry by Cairo designer Suzy Al Masry can all be found here. The shop’s canvas carryall bag, printed with “Al Qahira” (“The Victorious,” Cairo’s nickname) in Arabic, is a cult item in its own right (6 Bahgat Ali St.).
Art Galleries - again have your hotel check if open
Azraq w Buny (Blue and Brown) in Dokki
Asfour El Nile in Zamalek,
Falak in Garden City
Tip
Your hotel concierge is always a good resource for recommendations for restaurants and specific types of shops. The guides tend to take you to places where they will get commission so are not a reliable source.
Four Seasons First Residence Hotel, Cairo
I have no hesitation in recommending the First Residence Cairo. A perfect an luxurious escape from the grime and madness that is the amazing city of Cairo. Click the logo to visit their website
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