30 Night Indian Excursion Itinerary 2016
Finally managed to find time to return to India and although I started planning the trip last year it ended up with last minute changes which I now feel made it far more tiring than it should have been but it was still a wonderful experience.
We originally planned on going to Bhutan at the end but due to the final costings we decided that we would leave Bhutan for a separate holiday so Shimla and Amritsar were added instead.
Again I used Louise Nicholson and Quo Vadis for all the arrangements and as before requested the best hotels we could afford plus rooms with balconies or separate sitting areas (as I smoke) and good views especially in the Himalayas.
Itinerary
Delhi - 4 nights
Panna National Park - 3 nights
Varanasi - 2 nights
Darjeeling - 3 nights
Pelling - 3 nights
Gangtok - 2 nights
Amritsar - 2 nights
Shimla - 4 nights
Kolkata - 4 nights
Two nights were marked down after Varanasi and Gangtok to stay overnight in Delhi to be able to catch morning flights. Both nights would be at the JW Marriott close to the airport, we stayed here last time and it is an excellent hotel.
We flew Thai business Phuket to Bangkok and I had to book Jet Airways over to Delhi due to timings and then Thai again for the return from Kolkata, all business class.
Used the e-visa service which worked well, the only downside is the 30 days which cannot be extended, this meant we lost one day as Thai fly out at 2 am from Kolkata. There was hardly any queue in Delhi so we were through fairly quickly.
We left Phuket on 30th April due to arrive Delhi just before midnight but due to supposedly bad weather in Bangkok the flight up was delayed, they swapped us to an earlier Thai flight but we still missed the Jet flight. Thankfully Thai provided seats on their flight into Delhi but this meant we actually arrived a day later so were able to extend our stay in Kolkata by one night.
Day 1- Delhi - Qutub Minar Tower, Raisina Hill & India Gate
The agent met us at the airport and as there is hardly any traffic at this time of night/morning we got to the hotel quickly.
I had difficulty choosing between The Lodhi and The Imperial hotels but went for the more modern Lodhi and this was a great hotel, we would certainly stay there again, lovely big rooms and balcony with plunge pool, service very good and location was quiet. We went for Afternoon Tea at The Imperial which I thought it was too big and impersonal so happy with our choice.
As we were late getting in we met our guide at 11.30 am and first stop was the Qutub Minar Tower which is the highest in India. This is now a UNESCO World Heritage site and there are other important buildings to see in the complex including the Alai Minar, a 7 metre iron pillar.
Next was Raisina Hill to see the north and south admin buildings and the impressive Rastrapathi Bhawan, now the home of the President of India. A short drive down to India Gate which was built in honour of the Indian soldiers killed during WWI. As it was a Sunday afternoon the parks surrounding the monument were busy with locals having picnics and playing cricket...all very civilised.
We then stopped for a very late lunch at the Lodhi Garden Restaurant located within the park which was excellent.
Sunday is a good day to visit these places as traffic was light and there were not too many people around.
Day 2 - Old Delhi, Birla House & Khan Market
A morning visit to Old Delhi (Shahjahanbad so named because this is where Shah Jahan came to when he left Agra) and took the traditional rickshaw ride through the streets to the Spice Market. Great selection of spices and yes we did buy some before walked back through the narrow lanes towards the Mosque which is one of the most important ones in India. It is huge and impressive and to enter you do need to be covered up but do not worry you can choose from a selection of very fetching gowns and socks, perfect for that instagram photo!
Birla House
Back to the car and onto Birla House located in New Delhi, this is the bungalow where Mahatma Ghandi was staying before he was shot, you can see the room where he slept and there is a small interesting museum on site plus very moving memorials to him, Indira and Sanjay Ghandi in the gardens.
Khan Market
Before returning to the hotel we left the guide and went to Khan Market which has a good selection of shops and places to eat, this is now one of my favourite shopping areas and Jon was also happy when he found the Royal Enfield shop. It is always my intention to swim in every hotel pool so back to the hotel and went for some exercise at the huge swimming pool and then booked a Spa treatment choosing the 'look 10 years younger' option. Didn't even manage 5 years off but it was very relaxing.
Day 3 - Humayan's Tomb & a Bit of Art
Humayan’s Tomb this morning which I was really looking forward too. Built in 1570 by Humayan's queen Haji Begam at an approximate cost of 1.5 million, this is a beautiful building and perhaps used as the basis for the more famous Taj Mahal. You can read about the restoration before entering the gardens surrounding the tomb, these have been restored and have fountains and water channels forming a typical Mughal garden called a Charbagh. There are other tombs and buildings within the complex.
We then decided to go to the Museum of Modern Art which was not as expected, not much modern art to be found, possibly better to visit the galleries instead.
Time to say goodbye to the guide and on to Afternoon Tea at the Imperial Hotel. Very impressive doormen but not an impressive tea which was served in an inside covered courtyard, good service and tea but the cakes were poor. Still it gave us a chance to check out the hotel which has been renovated well but not quite correctly, it lacked taste.
One last shopping expedition out to Hauz Khas which is another great shopping area with lots of nice little shops, cafes and restaurants but the best bit is the medieval tomb and remains of a university right at the end of the main street.
Delhi Conclusion
Loved Delhi, great hotel, great food and great shopping. We had no problems with the famous smog during our stay and did not find the traffic to be an issue except going out to the airport. No doubt there is far more to see and definitely will return.
Days 4 to 6 - Panna National Park
Early morning flight to Khajuraho via Varanasi via Agra….although I had queried this and also checked trains and car timing myself, this seemed to be the quickest option. Basically both Jon and I arrived in Khajuraho quivering wrecks plus we could not get off the plane at each stop so a long journey. Each flight had extremely bad turbulence to the point we both thought we would not survive, I am sure the Air India pilots do not try to avoid turbulence! Later we learnt that there is an overnight train from Delhi so I think this may be a safer and more pleasant option especially this time of year when turbulence is bad due to the heat (according to the pilot who I met in the smoking room at the airport!).
It is about a two hour drive down to Panna and we arrived at Pashan Garh early evening just in time for dinner. This hotel is set within its own forest/jungle with 12 lodges to chose from. You get two game drives per day with guide so up at 4 am returning around 9.30/10 am then off again around 4 pm back at 7.30 pm. You can also go for jungle walks around the property.
All meals are included but it starts to become a struggle to go to the dining room especially as the chef takes great pride in providing you with whatever you like to the point where if you eat everything more keeps coming and if you don’t like something a new selection comes. I returned to my childhood by trying to hide food on the plate as you just did not want to offend him. The staff are absolutely wonderful, they set up a surprise private dining experience and then brought a cake to thank us for staying on the night before we left.
Panna itself has amazing scenery and we rarely saw any other vehicles but we unfortunately did not see any tigers or leopards, plenty of birds, deer, crocodile and mongoose though. Overall this was a great experience and the hotel is very special.
Panna Conclusion
I would have chosen another park as I expressly asked to see a tiger and I think Panna is not set up to do this, only one of their tigers covers the area you are allowed to drive round. But if you wish to visit Khajuraho to see the temples or are interested in birds then it is worth spending some time at the Park purely due to its beauty and the small amount of vehicles allowed in.
Day 7 - Varanasi
We decided to do another game drive early this morning with the hope of seeing 'the tiger' rather than visiting the temples at Khajuraho but no luck, even so it is an addictive experience keep going into the park.
There was a mix up by the local agent and flight times so we did manage to see the temples for about 30 minutes before rushing to the airport. Built by the Chandella clan, the Hindu and Jain temples are stunning and very explicit. Saved by being within a forest they were rediscovered in 1819 by a British military surveyor.
Thankfully we had a smooth Jet flight to Varanasi, they obviously avoid the turbulence, and arrived late afternoon to be taken to our hotel the Taj Nadesar Palace which turned out to be a good choice. No sightseeing today so able to catch up on some sleep after our Panna experience.
Read More about Nadesar Palace
Day 8 - Hindu Temples, Sunset on the Ganga & Burning Bodies
After a lovely breakfast on the terrace our guide arrived to take us to visit a Hindu shrine and then a walk through the streets down to the river to overlook one of the places where they burn the bodies, unbelievable amount of wood used for 300 bodies a day! Walked through some of the narrow lanes and then went to see the Barnasi brocade weaving but I felt this was more a tourist shop although the weavers looked genuine.
Later we went back for sunset on the Ganga and to see the Aarti rituals…. what a riot of noise and colour and so many people! We had to walk down to get on a boat as you can only go so far in the car, this walk is very busy with bikes weaving in and out and I was glad I was not carrying anything. The river is packed with boats but this is the best way to see everything, far better than the restaurant balcony we went to afterwards.
Day 9 - Sunrise on the Ganga & Sarnath
Sunrise on the Ganga….this was the highlight of our visit to Varanasi, the atmosphere and light made it feel different and more like what I expected. We finished by walking the lanes and visiting a temple that we could not actually go into while the guide waited in a spice shop so the obligatory buying of a few spices and oils.
Later we went out to Sarnath, the place where Buddhism started. The museum is well worth visiting along with the Deer Park but the temple donated by Thailand did make us laugh, typically tacky.
Back to our hotel via a suitcase shop and onto the airport for our flight back to Delhi for a night at the J W Marriott before departing for Darjeeling.
Varanasi Conclusion
I insisted on adding Varanasi to the itinerary and although I am happy we went I would not be in a hurry to return, I do get the feeling that we walked the wrong areas and with a better guide the experience would have been as expected. The hotel was lovely and the perfect oasis to retreat to.
Day 10 - Darjeeling
Great breakfast at JW and flight to Bagdogra on another smooth Jet flight arriving lunchtime.
Met by the driver from Glenburn Tea Estate who gave us a welcome letter explaining the drive, what to expect on arrival and that we would stop for tea and cake at a viewpoint half way to the hotel.
Found a shop for wine, beer and chocolate supplies on the way, this turned into a photo opportunity for the shopkeepers.
Started to get a bit jittery once we started to drive up into the mountains especially as it was raining heavy and the stop at the viewpoint was very welcome and memorable with lovely sandwiches, cake and Darjeeling tea served by the driver much to the amusement of the domestic tourists who had also stopped there. The rest of the drive was not too bad and we arrived at Glenburn late afternoon.
Wow…what a view, Louise said this is one of the great hotel views of the world and I would agree.
Our room was in a separate building, it was huge with amazing views of the mountains. The weather was perfect, it was like being back in England with a bit of heat during the day.
Time to recharge with good food and excellent company.
Day 11 - Mountain Walks and Tea Factory
Woke this morning around 5 am to clear skies and the most incredible view of a snow topped Kangchenjunga, India's highest mountain, this place is well worth coming too!
Lovely breakfast is served on the terrace and then a tour of the Tea Factory with the estate manager, actually learned a lot about tea including that tea bags contain all the droppings..lovely! After a light lunch we went on a circular walk around the plantation passing through the Shikari Dura village returning just in time for Afternoon Tea on the veranda, the tea is superb and cakes are wonderful, all homemade.
Later all the guests have dinner together and we were lucky to have a great group of people, opened all our wine stock and sat talking into the early hours.
Day 12 - Hike down to the River
After another lovely breakfast today we booked to walk down to the river instead of going into Darjeeling. This is a fairly hike through the tea plantations and then woods downhill going from 3000 ft to 800 ft to the Rungeet River where there is a campsite. Tea, sandwiches and cakes were served by the banks of the river, beautiful setting and well worth doing this hike. We were taken back up by jeep which is a interesting ride!
Later all guests were invited to a BBQ to celebrate the birthday of a member of staff...another great evening.
Day 13 - Sikkim
Reluctantly packing to leave this morning and after another lovely breakfast we were taken up the mountain to meet our guide and driver for the trip to Sikkim.
Sikkim was a separate kingdom until 1975 when it joined India rather than China, it borders Bhutan, Tibet and Nepal. The people mostly follow Tibetan Buddhism and I was expecting beautiful mountain scenery filled with little villages and farms and flowers!
It is approximately a 4 hour drive to Pelling and we were due to visit the Tashiding Monastery on the way but this would have added another 3 hours to the journey and the condition of the road was in doubt so it was decided to go straight to Pelling.
We were not given any documents or advised to have photos for the border crossing which were required but the guide Shu sorted all this out for us, he was absolutely wonderful throughout our time in Sikkim.
The journey is tiring, twists and turns with sheer drops to make you cringe, numerous roadworks and mad local drivers in 4 x 4 full of Indian tourists. I was also informed that there is no smoking in public places but Shu found places for me.
We arrived at the Chumbi Mountain Retreat late afternoon with rain and heavy cloud cover, if we had known what was to follow we would have returned to Darjeeling.
Although the hotel was highly recommended when we finally got checked in and taken to the room it was appalling, stuck up on the top floor in the attic space with no view. Then began a complicated upgrade to a suite which at least had a view. As we were due to spend 3 nights here we decided we would stay if the food was acceptable, we moved the next day.
Read More about Chumbi Mountain Resort
Day 14 - Pelling
After an attempt to try and have breakfast we transferred to The Elgin, dumped the bags and went to see the Pemayangtse Monastery which is one of the oldest monasteries in Sikkim built in 1705. Onto Rapdentse the 18th century ruins of a royal palace, this was the most interesting site we visited even though no views due to the rain.
In the afternoon we went to Khecheopairi Lake, sacred to Hindus and Buddhists. This is another scary one and a half hours drive to get there and the place was packed out so did not feel very sacred or frankly worth the effort. Pelling itself seemed to be full of small hotels and hostels, nowhere to find local crafts or even anywhere that looked decent to stop and eat or have a drink even though we asked.
Returned to the hotel late afternoon, again the views were obscured so tried their Afternoon Tea and attempted a soggy walk around the gardens.
We could only get one night at The Elgin so we would be moved onto Gangtok the next morning.
Read More about The Elgin Mount
Day 15 - Gangtok
A nearly 5 hour delightful drive to Gangtok around mountains, up through the clouds and down through the clouds, what little scenery appeared through the heavy rain was not pretty. We finally arrived at Sikkim's answer to disney world with some Thai touches, the Mayfair hotel. No sightseeing today as it was too late but finally some decent food at the huge buffet, pasta instead of rice for me.
Tomorrow we would move to the Elgin Norkhill.
Read More about Mayfair Resort
Day 16 - Ramtek Monastery, Namgyal Insitute & Sikkim's answer to the Champs Elysses!
After a decent buffet breakfast Shu informed us that we must go immediately to the Ramtek Monastery as the Head Monk was in town unexpectedly. A few hours later after winding our way around more mountains we arrived at the monastery along with most of the inhabitants of Sikkim. Luckily this did turn out to be the highlight of our trip, the ceremonies were worth seeing.
Back down the mountains to check into our fourth hotel, we checked out the next day!
Afternoon visit to the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology which was founded by the Dalai Lama and opened by Nehru, I know I am not a huge fan of museums but this was worth 15 minutes of your time and a cheap and nasty museum shop. The craft and flower museum were closed so we went for a walk down the local version of the Champs Elysses, yes well on what planet! We did manage to buy two local masks and some beer which apparently is very good.
At this point we arranged to fly back to Delhi a day early, driving up, down and round every mountain in the Himalayas had taken its toll along with the basic accommodation and dreadful weather which had not allowed us to see any of the supposedly beautiful countryside. Pelling and Gangtok in particular were a blot on the landscape and had nothing of real interest in them. Our guide Shu was absolutely brilliant and we were sorry to say goodbye to him but got the feeling that he was glad to get back to Darjeeling a day early.
Read More about Elgin Nor-khill
Sikkim Conclusion
Although the weather did not help I felt Sikkim was a waste of our time, the hotels were not up to scratch and the time spent in the car to get anywhere while being thrown about was just too long. We were expecting to see beautiful scenery, orchids everywhere and to stay in small Heritage style hotels with stunning views so a mixture of sightseeing and relaxation.
On all these long car rides there was nowhere to stop for a western toilet so take that into account!
The best part of Sikkim for us was meeting the guide, Shu, an absolutely lovely man, he actually lives in Darjeeling so if anyone wants a guide while in the area try and find him.
Days 17 & 18 - A return to comfort - Delhi
So happy to arrive back at the J W Marriott, scalding hot showers, fluffy dressing gowns, club sandwiches and a clean comfortable bed, the nightmare was over.
Arranged for a driver for the day to go shopping and had a great time revisiting Khan Market and Shantushi, we bought so much we had to leave a suitcase with the agent to pick up on our return from Shimla.
Day 19 - Amritsar
Feeling much better and after a good breakfast we left for the 12.15 flight to Amritsar on Air India, plenty of room on the Dreamliner.
Met and escorted to the Hyatt which is okay, 3 star at best but the only decent option at the time, its advantage is that it is next to a Shopping Mall.
After a quick freshen up we decided to do the sunset Beating of the Retreat done by Indian Border Security Force and the Pakistan Rangers at Wagah on the India-Pakistan Border. The drive was about an hour and we were told we could not take anything with us except a camera and iPad. We had to walk quite a distance accompanied by the guide who got us through a few checkpoints and then left us. At the seating area we were directed to a narrow strip of concrete steps that were already quite full and we had over an hour to wait until the ceremony. With no water and no money to buy some, the heat was unbearable especially as it we were starting to get crushed so I left and went out to the back of the stands. This is where the soldiers practice and they took pity on me and allowed me to sit and watch them, use their water to cool down and then took me back a few minutes before the start, I had a great time watching them practice and also watching a ninja type one checking himself out in the mirror, doing his hair and putting on the dark sunglasses. On returning I was at road level so could see both sides of the ceremony which was much more enjoyable although you have the watch the soldiers who are controlling the crowds, one of the females was actually hitting some of the spectators to make them do as she wanted.
This is a great experience but take plenty of water or money to get drinks, also wear a hat as the heat was unbearable, you can take these things, the guide was not precise.
Returned to the hotel and went for food and shopping at the Mall where we found another Royal Enfield shop and also a Marks and Spencers!
Day 20 - Golden Temple and Jallianwalla
Next morning after breakfast we were taken to the Golden Temple. There are a lot of roadworks in the centre so we had to walk quite a way in, again was very crowded with motorbikes and cars so you need to watch your belongings, one Indian couple actually stopped Jon and told him to be very careful.
The temple lived up to expectations, it is stunning although very crowded, huge queues for the Hari mandir so we just walked all the way round slowly. Interesting to see the food area where everyone can get a free meal.
On the walk back we then went to Jallianwala Bagh. Do visit and see the small gallery with first hand accounts and the memorial. We did feel we should not advertise the fact that we were English although we were asked to have our photo taken with the Indian tourists when they heard us speak.
I had asked to then explore the bazaar lanes around the temple for crafts, juttis etc but we were taken back to the car and driven to the usual tourist trap shops. Eventually got to a great shop selling juttis but this was not in the bazaar lanes! A stop for lunch and drink ended up in a frightful place that is supposedly very well known as the best restaurant in Amritsar which was worrying. So back to the hotel to rest before going back to the Golden Temple for sunset.
It is well worth attending the evening ceremony, we stayed a couple of hours and atmosphere is great. Everyone wanted photos with us and were very friendly. Also all the shops were open around the temple at this time.
Also I would advise going very early in the morning to the Golden Temple as well as at sunset.
We were due to leave for Shimla tomorrow morning which was down as nearly a 6 hour drive. On asking the guide for a departure time we discovered that they knew nothing about this, phone calls to Delhi eventually sorted out a 7 am departure time and an expected journey of 7 plus hours, it would have been quicker to fly.
Amritsar Conclusion
Very glad we went to Amritsar, The Golden Temple is definitely worth seeing and the Border Ceremony is certainly memorable. Amritsar itself did not offer much more although they do seem to be improving the road system and tourism is increasing. Would not consider returning.
Days 21 to 24- Shimla
7 am drive to Shimla via Chandigarh, no idea if this is the quickest route but it took 9.5 hours. The final 4.5 hours from Chandigarh was again nerve wracking, it is actually worse here than in Sikkim as there are many parts of the road where there are no barriers whatsoever and a lot more buses/coaches passing in places where they shouldn’t.
First impressions were of amazing scenery again marred by ugly towns.
We arrived at Wildflower Hall late afternoon, nice welcome and just an issue with the room to sort before getting ready for a lovely evening meal.
The hotel is certainly wonderful, views stunning, service very good, food very very good (no buffets) and a nice if somewhat bland traditional bedroom. You can dine outside on the terrace which has amazing views and, if you insist, afternoon tea on the front lawn.
We had no guide for the 4 nights here although the driver was on standby if required.
The first day we just relaxed, walked the grounds, played croquet and sat on the front lawn reading, so long since we have seen proper english style grass and the weather was perfect, easy to understand why the British made it their summer capital.
On Jon's birthday we arranged a White Water Rafting excursion and I set up a surprise birthday dinner to be held in the Pergola in the gardens.
We had our driver take us to the river accompanied by the hotel guide, it is about a 2 hour journey and this was the worst drive of the lot, it made the roads in Sikkim a piece of cake. The road is literally almost at the top of the mountains, no barriers and cows grazing on the steep slope above you, I spent a lot of time wondering if they ever fall off onto the road! When we reached the river, our lovely driver said “very dangerous road”.
The river rafting was brilliant, thoroughly enjoyed every minute and even when a storm started we would not have missed the experience. They also stop for tea and sandwiches half way, they put up a tent with fold up chairs and get out a hamper full of goodies.
So just the dreaded drive back to the hotel to deal with...on arrival I was told we could not sit outside for the birthday dinner due to expected rain. They offered a cinema room saying we could watch TV during our romantic dinner or down in the pool room which they promised to set up with nice lights, candles etc, this seemed the best option. Utter disaster...the chlorine smell was overpowering, the lighting was non existent and the wait for food was an age. As no rain had appeared we asked to move outside onto the terrace but by the time we got out there it had started to get extremely cold..we gave up and went back to the room. Jon did also get a cake!
On our last day we had our driver take us into town and walked the Mall which is a typically english stye high street leading to a Post Office and Church...bizarre...only the British would build a replica english town on top of a mountain in India. Some interesting colonial buildings and large beautiful houses in desperate need of renovation plus walk the lower streets for more interesting shops. We called at The Cecil, another Oberoi hotel but it did not look as nice as Wildflower Hall.
Day 25 - Kolkata
Onwards to Kolkata so early breakfast and pick up to take us to the train station to catch the Himalayan Queen, a toy train which connects to Chandigarh but we had to get off halfway due to flight times. Horrendous traffic through Shimla meant we missed it so they took us to the next station where we had to run over the tracks to get onto it. Unfortunately the carriage was packed and one of our seats had gone. Although this had been pre booked for first class we ended up in the wrong carriage and Jon had to stand the whole way and I was squashed against the inside window with an elderly indian lady fast asleep on me the whole way.
It would have been a great experience otherwise, the train slowly winds its way down and the views are excellent if you get the right seats. The first class carriage is at the back and has an outdoor deck with seating so this would have been perfect.
We were met in Delhi airport by the agent with all our extra luggage and upgraded to business on Air India for very little extra cost.
Late arrival in Kolkata so no traffic about but lots of people sleeping in the roads, the city looked old and interesting as we drove through with lots of narrow streets and alleys leading off. Easy check in at the Oberoi Grand but again a dull room.
Day 26 - The Black Hole of Calcutta
Awoke to the sound of banging and drills, they were renovating the main restaurant and famous Chowringhee Bar which were right below our room. After a hit and miss breakfast in the small Thai restaurant which was preferable to a narrow corridor which they attempted to tempt us with, we arranged to move to a higher floor, no joy with an upgrade as the King of Bhutan was staying and he had the only room with a balcony and separate shower.
Met our guide for the next few days who was extremely proud of Kolkata, its history and of the opinion that the British should never have left! Sightseeing started with St John's Church, the third oldest and home to the Black Hole of Calcutta monument and mausoleum of the man who started the city, Job Charnock. We then moved onto Dalhousie Square, site of the original Fort William, today you can see the Post Office, Treasury Office and the Reserve Bank of India to name but a few. The Black Hole of Calcutta was a small guardroom of the original fort where 123 of 146 British prisoners of war including indian civilians and two women were imprisoned overnight by troops of the Nawab of Bengal, they died from suffocation and heat exhaustion. The exact location of guardroom is in a alleyway between the Post Office and another building in the north west corner of the square. We have used the saying 'black hole of Calcutta' most of our lives without questioning the true meaning so to see and learn where it came from was fascinating.
From the square we walked down towards the College Street Coffee House which is the meeting place for intellectuals and students, great atmosphere and excellent coffee! On the way we passed shops trading in teas and stalls with men using old typewriters, apparently the place to get your documents typed up. Outside the coffee shop the streets are full of stalls selling every type of book you can think of…much more interesting than the average book shop, you could be there hours.
The Victoria Memorial next...built between 1906 and 1921 to commemorate Queen Victoria the monument is very impressive and well worth visiting, the galleries contain many interesting collections from the Victorian era. You can also visit St Paul's Cathedral in the same area but by this point we were suffering from the humidity and heat, actually worse that Phuket, so we returned to the hotel.
Day 27 - Park Street Cemetery & the Marble Palace
A morning start with the South Park Street Cemetery opened in 1767 and in use until 1830 this is now an heritage site. It is a must do site, very atmospheric and sad reading the inscriptions but we like old cemeteries, you could easily spend a couple of hours here. Do buy the booklet at the entrance as the money goes to the upkeep.
Our guide then insisted that we see a Jain Temple made from glass, very beautiful he said so sounded worth visiting. Hilarious... do not bother!
Next he recommended the Marble Palace, again thought this was a waste as it is a private mansion which at first glance looks full of tacky rubbish and very dusty. But looking closely there are pieces that are worth a fortune mixed in with junk….some of the paintings are again stunning but are so dirty. Fascinating place and a wonderful historic building. Only downside is the cages of birds they have in there and dread to think what the on site zoo is like..
We then spent the rest of day driving all over the city visiting Art galleries to try and pick up work by local artists but no joy. Final stop was at a great Cottage Industry shop for shawls and scarves at silly prices, do not know the name as guide just stopped there.
That morning we had decided to see if we could extend our stay by one day due to the delayed flight in, I left everything in the very capable hands of Richard at the hotel so one more night in Kolkata.
Day 28 - Shopping
Booking a car and driver through the hotel and spent a hectic day driving around the city stopping at Louise's recommended shops as well as two shopping malls for spices, indian cooking dishes and last minute presents. We then had to get everything into the cases and we were allowed to stay in our room until leaving to catch the 2 am flight back to Bangkok with 83 kg of luggage, not bad only 3 kg over!
Kolkata Airport is almost brand new but already looking worn, very little choice of shops or restaurants and a very basic business lounge upstairs, not the place to spend any length of time.
Kolkata Conclusion
Mixed feelings about this city, lot of colonial buildings to see and enjoyed our stay there but did not like it as much as Mumbai or Delhi. The hotel itself was a disappointment although the staff and service were brilliant.
Louise Nicholson - India
For anyone wanting a tour of India then Louise is the person to go to...highly recommended
Gripes and Moans
Sikkim was a huge disappointment, hotels were very poor and too much driving required, the weather did not help.
A couple of the guides were not so good, mainly Amritsar and Varanasi so I felt we did not have the best experiences in those two cities.
A few issues with the wrong rooms at a number of hotels but nothing that could not be sorted.
Once you have been to India you will have to go back!
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